"If you squint hard enough at this Fort Greene restaurant celebrating Thailand’s train culture, you could convince yourself you’re in an exhibit at the transit museum. The decor—dark-stained wooden benches, linen-covered windows, and old leather luggage decorating the walls—is by far the most memorable thing about the restaurant. The food has some highs, and some lows, and ultimately plays second fiddle to the space. photo credit: Mitree Pumee Sukh’s love of the past extends to their physical menu, too, which is designed like an old newspaper and details the history and culture of Thai train stations. It even lists the regional origins of several dishes, like the creamy and fishy hor mok from Pattaya, or the pleasantly spicy kapraw moo from Bangkok. There are enough hits on the menu—hor mok and kapraw moo included—to justify a trip to the restaurant even if not everything works. (And even if you don't have a collection of model trains in your basement.) So keep Sukh in mind for a casual group dinner in the area the next time you want to catch up over juicy papaya salad, and plates of sweet and chewy noodles. Food Rundown photo credit: Will Hartman Kapraw Moo Punchy and spicy, this is the entree to prioritize. Eat it with a spoon—the heat should wake up your nose. photo credit: Will Hartman Hor Mok This dish could make little terra cotta hats fashionable. Salty and warm, and topped with luxurious steamed crab, we always appreciate an appetizer that we don’t see all that often around the city. photo credit: Will Hartman Gai Tod Nom Pla Yes these are fried until crispy, but the wings unfortunately don’t pick up enough of the caramelized fish sauce that they need. Gor Gluay The best part of this dish is the textural contrast between the chewy pancakes similar to turnip cakes, fried wonton skins, and crunchy peanuts. Though some bites lack salt, it's still fun to eat and worth ordering. photo credit: Will Hartman Somtum Thai Crunchy and refreshing, get this if it’s above 70 degrees out. It’s Sukh’s version of AC (the restaurant is more than temperate inside). But the combination of acidity, crunch, funk, and a touch of spice make this an essential summer dish. Khao Tom Heng This steamed rice with a bunch of proteins—fried sausage, crispy pork belly, shrimp, fried tofu, and stir-fried ground pork—is missing cohesion, and feels a bit like a 1am meal that you pull together with what’s in your fridge. The side of soup is warming and stellar, though." - Will Hartman
