SUKH

"This restaurant in Fort Greene is gorgeously designed, drawing from Thai railroad history as the inspiration for pew-like benches outside, linen curtains, and red-and-gold accents that might convince you you’re in a private lounge in a beautiful old train station. But you’re not. You’re in a restaurant, and it’s a very good one. Split a couple of dishes with a friend or two—the space is pretty tight. The hor mok, a steamed branzino custard with crab, is buzzing with fresh chiles, while the kee mao noodles are herby with basil leaves and draped with long pepper. We also like the pla muk yang—a squeaky whole squid with a bright chili lime dressing for $20." - will hartman, willa moore, neha talreja, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim

"If you squint hard enough at this Fort Greene restaurant celebrating Thailand’s train culture, you could convince yourself you’re in an exhibit at the transit museum. The decor—dark-stained wooden benches, linen-covered windows, and old leather luggage decorating the walls—is by far the most memorable thing about the restaurant. The food has some highs, and some lows, and ultimately plays second fiddle to the space. photo credit: Mitree Pumee Sukh’s love of the past extends to their physical menu, too, which is designed like an old newspaper and details the history and culture of Thai train stations. It even lists the regional origins of several dishes, like the creamy and fishy hor mok from Pattaya, or the pleasantly spicy kapraw moo from Bangkok. There are enough hits on the menu—hor mok and kapraw moo included—to justify a trip to the restaurant even if not everything works. (And even if you don't have a collection of model trains in your basement.) So keep Sukh in mind for a casual group dinner in the area the next time you want to catch up over juicy papaya salad, and plates of sweet and chewy noodles. Food Rundown photo credit: Will Hartman Kapraw Moo Punchy and spicy, this is the entree to prioritize. Eat it with a spoon—the heat should wake up your nose. photo credit: Will Hartman Hor Mok This dish could make little terra cotta hats fashionable. Salty and warm, and topped with luxurious steamed crab, we always appreciate an appetizer that we don’t see all that often around the city. photo credit: Will Hartman Gai Tod Nom Pla Yes these are fried until crispy, but the wings unfortunately don’t pick up enough of the caramelized fish sauce that they need. Gor Gluay The best part of this dish is the textural contrast between the chewy pancakes similar to turnip cakes, fried wonton skins, and crunchy peanuts. Though some bites lack salt, it's still fun to eat and worth ordering. photo credit: Will Hartman Somtum Thai Crunchy and refreshing, get this if it’s above 70 degrees out. It’s Sukh’s version of AC (the restaurant is more than temperate inside). But the combination of acidity, crunch, funk, and a touch of spice make this an essential summer dish. Khao Tom Heng This steamed rice with a bunch of proteins—fried sausage, crispy pork belly, shrimp, fried tofu, and stir-fried ground pork—is missing cohesion, and feels a bit like a 1am meal that you pull together with what’s in your fridge. The side of soup is warming and stellar, though." - Will Hartman

"Styled like an old-fashioned train car, Sukh is a Thai restaurant that leans slightly more upscale than the owners’ other spot, nearby Nourish, a takeout favorite of Prospect Heights. Over in Fort Greene, the menu is more ambitious — and more spicy. Khao soi is one of those classics, where if I see it on the menu, I know I’m probably going to order it. But sometimes khao soi can veer too sweet for my liking: not so at Sukh, where the red curry broth is balanced with a kick, teeming with a chicken drumstick and pickled mustard greens ($22)." - Eater Staff

"Sukh, a Fort Greene Thai restaurant designed in the style of a train car, is opening next week from the team behind another Thai spot in the area, Nourish. It’s debuting at 723 Fulton Street, at Lafayette Avenue, on the same block as two other newcomers to Fort Greene, wine bar-restaurant, Margot, and the forthcoming oyster spot, Strange Delight." - Emma Orlow

“A friend — recently returned to the city after a year in East Asia — was the first to tell me about a restaurant in Fort Greene that stood toe-to-toe with anywhere she ate in Thailand. It doesn’t look it from the outside, necessarily, a nondescript space on Fulton Street, but inside feels like a Thai train car, with wood paneling, deep leather booths, curtained windows, and luggage in overhead storage. Start with the hor mok, savory branzino curry custard topped with crab; and the spicy green-papaya salad. Whole branzino was impressive, laden with peppercorns and chiles, and the pad Thai is served with a tender cut of grilled chicken. Warm taro custard with a scoop of coconut ice cream is a perfect finish. Whenever I return, the restaurant will likely have a liquor license, which the owners expect to receive this summer.”