Hugo’s Review - Montrose - Houston - The Infatuation
"Go to Hugo’s once for a celebration and it’ll become a tradition. It’s where regular folks go to celebrate a birthday, and it's where Houston’s elite go to celebrate a random Thursday. It’s also where half of Houston has probably been to at least once for the legendary Sunday brunch buffet. Houstonians love Hugo’s. It’s a classic, an upscale yet casual Mexican restaurant in Montrose that always feels special, without ever trying too hard. Hugo’s is a stunner—the historic, Latin-inspired space was built in 1925 and has high ceilings and chandeliers that look like they were shipped in from a local castle. At Hugo’s, the details matter, including little things like margaritas that get shaken tableside, or having a coat rack brought out for your handbag. It’s a place that operates with the quiet confidence of an institution. photo credit: Richard Casteel photo credit: Richard Casteel If the inside of Hugo’s isn’t enough to get you in the door, the food here will, especially the pillowy, handmade blue corn tortillas so delicious that they’re worth fighting over. You’ll find sensational traditional Mexican dishes like a tender slow-roasted lamb barbacoa or a crispy duck served with a fiery poblano mole. When they’re in season, make sure to order the classic chile en nogada, a walnut-crusted poblano pepper topped with a savory walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds. The menu is massive, spanning from ceviches to suckling pig. Everyone has their favorite dish, and everyone is right. photo credit: Richard Casteel Hugo’s specializes in making meals memorable. It’s impossible to fight back a smile when your great-aunt’s birthday dessert arrives at the table with “Happy Birthday” written on the plate in chocolate sauce (like it is every year). If you’re balling on a budget, Hugo’s has an excellent Happy Hour—discounted margaritas and carnitas tacos taste maybe even more delicious than the full priced ones. And who can be a grump while a string quartet plays over the balcony during the Sunday brunch buffet? Because Hugo’s feels like fancy fine dining, without being stuffy or forced, even on a random Thursday. Food Rundown photo credit: Richard Casteel Chapulines Chapulines at Hugo’s get sauteed and served between a spicy salsa and a creamy guacamole. They also come with housemade blue corn tortillas that might cause a heated discourse at the table over who gets the last one. photo credit: Richard Casteel Pulpo Al Carbon The grilled octopus here is tender, fresh, and slightly charred. They’re also served with more flour tortillas, which is good in case the previous tortilla debate didn’t work out in your favor. photo credit: Richard Casteel Pato En Mole Poblano At the center of this dish is a crispy duck leg that gets a dose of heat from the rich poblano mole. There’s also a pillow-soft square of mole cornbread underneath the duck that balances the spiciness of the rest of the dish. photo credit: Richard Casteel Barbacoa The slow-roasted lamb is spicy, succulent, and practically melts in your mouth. It also comes wrapped in a banana leaf so it can be unwrapped like a present. photo credit: Richard Casteel Churros Our favorite dessert at Hugo’s, the churros, are filled with dulce de leche and covered with a generous dusting of cinnamon-sugar. They also come with chocolate ice cream and a cup of housemade hot chocolate that you can sip on its own, or, preferably, for churro dunking." - Gianni Greene
