"There’s a lot to like about The Begging Bowl, not least that this Thai restaurant on a village-y stretch in Peckham is the kind of spot we daydream about having around the corner. The conservatory setting means light floods in at early evening, and hands brush over candlelit miang kham come nighttime. But if you’re a fan of sour whacks and searing hits of chilli then The Begging Bowl might underdeliver a little. There’s great cooking on show here—like gai tod, crispy fried chicken with a lip-smacking tamarind sauce, and gorgeously tender gaeng bumbai (beef curry). It's just that things tend to sing from the same hymn sheet. Some canoodling dates might be relieved that there isn’t an assault of chilli, but London has some outstanding Thai restaurants and the ingredients at The Begging Bowl can certainly do more. Even so, the neighbourly service and vegetarian-friendly menu make it a reliable casual dinner option. Food Rundown Gai Tod These gold pieces of fried chicken are light in batter and topped with a handful of deep-fried onions. The meat is juicy to the bite and the tamarind sauce has a tart sourness to it. A little injection of heat would be welcome, though. video credit: Jake Missing Gaeng Bumbai The beef in this curry is undeniably tender. Poke at it with your fork and pink strands will pull away. Equally, the nutty brown sauce, with slices of carosello cucumber, is creamy and moreish with a polite tingle on the back of your throat. If anything, it’s a little too heavy on the coconut cream." - Jake Missing
