"Kensington is clearly the old-school Italian epicentre of London. We’re not mad about it. In fact, we’re big fans of another Kensington golden oldie, Il Portico and not just for the heavy curtain at the entrance that keeps the cold air out, or the intimate booths at the back that are perfect for date night. No, the reason we love Il Portico is because this spot maintains a white-tablecloth, black-and-white-framed-photograph atmosphere, while serving comforting plates of handmade nutmeg and walnut gnocchi. Plus, they aren’t too precious if you want a dish tweaked. Want to swap the tagliatelle for strozzapreti? They’ve got you." - jake missing, heidi lauth beasley, rianne shlebak