"Outside of the vaguely Butlins-esque performers who croon and cavort around Park Chinois’ two floors, there is no one more important in this Mayfair restaurant than you. It’s impossible not to feel it, because it’s what everyone at this gargantuan, wannabe-glitzy but faintly grubby, Cantonese restaurant feels. Most surprising of all is that some of the food, particularly the £100-plus signature peking duck, is also fighting you to be the star of the show. Still, if you avoid the pumping club downstairs, the Disney-ish take on a regal red dining room above is the kind of silliness that can be leaned into." - rianne shlebak, jake missing, sinead cranna