"French food gets a slight New Mexican makeover at this lively restaurant that walks the line between fine dining and bistro. It’s where you should bring someone who’s a small plate skeptic and wants their own entrée. Start with the fish of the day topped with crispy corn nuts in a bright leche de tigre, followed by a rack of lamb subtly kissed with hatch chile. Even the vegetarian dishes don’t feel like afterthoughts, like the celery root that’s roasted until caramelized before being bathed in a curry-spiked cream sauce with capers and herbs. The best time is lunch, when the atrium-like façade fills the dining room with light even on the greyest Paris afternoon, and the two- and three-course prix fixe (€27-€30) is an absolute steal. " - emily monaco, sophie friedman, sara lieberman
