"Walk up to the counter of La Cocina de Humo, grab a seat, and watch as freshly made tortillas, stews, and sauces come off the wood-fired comal in the open kitchen. The menu at this rustic, intimate Oaxacan restaurant changes constantly since all the ingredients come from the chef’s hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoo, about four hours away, and feature traditional Oaxacan flavors touched by smoke. If it’s on the menu, get the yellow mole with milpa green beans and ranch chicken, mole coloradito with pork, and tamales with cheese and tomato sauce. The food is superbly good, plus you’ll likely learn a bit about Oaxacan tradition and culture while you’re here." - liliana lopez, mariana camacho