Wood-fired Oaxacan kitchen experience, reservations required, 7 courses
González Ortega 514, Zona Feb 10 2015, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico Get directions
"Walk up to the counter of La Cocina de Humo, grab a seat, and watch as freshly made tortillas, stews, and sauces come off the wood-fired comal in the open kitchen. The menu at this rustic, intimate Oaxacan restaurant changes constantly since all the ingredients come from the chef’s hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoo, about four hours away, and feature traditional Oaxacan flavors touched by smoke. If it’s on the menu, get the yellow mole with milpa green beans and ranch chicken, mole coloradito with pork, and tamales with cheese and tomato sauce. The food is superbly good, plus you’ll likely learn a bit about Oaxacan tradition and culture while you’re here." - liliana lopez, mariana camacho
"A restaurant by chef Thalia Barrios García, offering an intimate dining experience with a menu driven by market ingredients, known for guisados and heirloom tomato salad."
"Walk up to the counter of La Cocina de Humo, grab a seat, and watch as the freshly made tortillas, stews, and sauces come off the wood-fired comal. The menu changes constantly, since all the ingredients come from the chef’s hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoo, which is about four hours away. Order dishes like yellow mole with milpa green beans and ranch chicken, mole coloradito with pork, and tamales with cheese and tomato sauce—all dishes the chef brought from where she grew up. Not only is the food extremely good, but you’ll also likely learn a bit about Oaxacan tradition and culture." - liliana lopez, kylie han
"We sat at a long, candlelit table at La Cocina de Humo as chef Thalía Barrios and her team recreated the rich, smoky flavors of the Sierra Sur, cooking everything over a wood-burning stove and serving it on stylish earthenware sourced from small regional producers." - Flora Stubbs Flora Stubbs Flora Stubbs is the executive editor of Travel + Leisure. She has been a journalist for over 20 years, and a travel editor for over a decade. Travel + Leisure Editorial Guidelines
"I had a tamal a year ago at La Cocina de Humo, and peeling away the banana-leaf wrapper revealed a steam-steaming parcel barely held together; inside were tender bites of pork seasoned with ancho and costeño amarillo chiles, oregano, fruit vinegar, clove, onion, garlic, and honey, a flavor I remembered for years and that compelled me to return. On my second visit, Barrios García set tomatillos, tomatoes, costeño chiles, and garlic on an oak-fired earthenware comal, formed blue and yellow masa by hand, pressed it into tortillas, mashed charred vegetables and the tortilla together in a molcajete, and finished the dish with queso fresco — a deeply personal, simple study composed of ingredients from her remote hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoo. La Cocina de Humo feels like pure artistic expression: a portal to the chef’s hometown and, very possibly, her heart." - Joe Ray