Union Loafers - Review - Botanical Heights - St. Louis - The Infatuation
"During the day, Union Loafers is a mellow bakery-cafe serving sandwiches on some of the best naturally leavened bread in the Midwest. But when the sun goes down, it becomes a lively pizza party that makes you want a Negroni immediately—and serves what is unquestionably the best pizza in St. Louis. photo credit: Adam Rothbarth Think Neapolitan-ish by way of New York, with a crust that’s toothsome and tangy but pillowy inside and a sweet, Calabrian chile-tinged sauce. And while out-of-towners may want to try a sausage pie that showcases the city’s famous Provel cheese, the aggressively savory spinach pie—a green expanse that supports ultra-thick bacon, lemon, garlic, mozzarella, and grana padano—is the better move. It’s the kind of zippy umami bomb that could be overpowering with flavor, but is actually beautifully balanced. The marinara captures the same zesty wizardry, making up for its lack of cheese with a one-two punch of spicy chili oil and Calabrian chiles generously distributed alongside sliced garlic and spicy marinara sauce. It’s one of the best vegan pizzas you can find anywhere. photo credit: Adam Rothbarth The drink menu is ideal for cutting through the richness of the pizza, as it’s laced with crisp, chilled wines. And the rest of the dinner menu is a lean, smart list of Italian-leaning bangers. For instance, the Italian Salad has a funky-creamy vinaigrette that would be enough on its own, but pickled peppers make it sing. The meatballs have a caramelized-but-velvety texture that’s given a bright lift from a generous sprinkle of grana padano cheese and an accompanying plate of, as the menu puts it, “burnt toast.” Loafers, as the locals call it, is a friendly, no-frills vibe that will suit virtually any social outing. It’s primed for a low-key weeknight dinner with your friends, a breezy meal with your parents, or a fun date with someone special. Whoever you’re with, just make sure it’s someone who will let you finish their crust if they throw in the towel. RESERVE A TABLE" - Adam Rothbarth
