abcV - Review - Flatiron - New York - The Infatuation

"Open since 2017, abcV in Flatiron is still a solid go-to for a vegetarian celebration, or a nice dinner in convenient proximity to Union Square for people who live along incompatible subway lines. The Jean-Georges restaurant is also a reminder that hitting your recommended daily intake of vegetables doesn’t need to be a chore. It can be a pleasure. Alongside Dirt Candy and Superiority Burger, abcV ranks among the places we most enthusiastically send our vegetarian friends. But that’s not because the preparations and combinations are particularly groundbreaking. Some of the best dishes are the most straightforward, like green chickpea hummus with an electric hit of garlic, and the dosa with a trio of sauces as richly pigmented as fingerpaint—but much better-tasting. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Noah Devereaux photo credit: Noah Devereaux photo credit: Noah Devereaux Pause Unmute Just keep in mind that ordering enough small plates for a full meal can get expensive. Those tahini-coconut-stuffed dates with a line of pistachios on top—like glamorous ants on a log—might be the best dates you’ve ever tasted, but they are $17 for four. Like ABC Kitchen, abcV is part of the home goods-industrial complex that is ABC Carpet & Home: a massive, interconnected space that can feel like a white-walled maze. Here though, it's just an unobtrusive canvas for the many vivid colors on your plate. You can have a team dinner or a date night, and forget that you're practically in a carpet store. photo credit: Noah Devereaux photo credit: Noah Devereaux photo credit: Noah Devereaux Pause Unmute And for a place that once printed disclaimers on the menu, warning that the FDA didn’t cosign its health claims, abcV is also pretty fun. Sure, you’ll still find “tonics,” “vibrations,” and at least one “elixir” among the non-alcoholic beverage offerings, but the restaurant has relaxed from its more overtly wellness-obsessed early days. These days, you're just as likely to witness a Rhubarb Negroni-fueled birthday party as you are to hear someone proclaiming that food is medicine. RESERVE A TABLE WITH RESERVE A TABLE Food Rundown Green Chickpea Hummus There’s something Bugs Bunny-ish about gnawing on a raw carrot, greens attached. Cucumber, romaine, radish, and fennel are also among the crunchy vegetables served alongside this dip, though that crudité heist team is ultimately beside the point. The creamy hummus is good enough to eat with a spoon, all by itself. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Avocado Lettuce Cups The avocado lettuce cups look like pretty carpet samples trimmed right out of the forest floor. This long-time abcV menu fixture is a complex and layered bite. There’s a great textural contrast between the creamy avocado and crunchy pumpkin seeds, and a generous squeeze of lime brightens up the whole thing like a floodlight. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Mushroom Walnut Bolognese Totally delicious. The silky sauce tastes long-simmered, with the savoriness you’d expect from a traditional bolognese rather than the texture of something vegetarian unconvincingly cosplaying as meat. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Cornmeal Crusted Oyster Mushrooms Skip these. The breading is so fine it’s like chewing glitter, and the ratio of cornmeal to mushroom is tipped too far toward that sandy coating. Dosa abcV’s dosa isn’t the crispest example of the form, but the three colorful, spicy sauces on the side make it a must-order. The coriander mint chutney tastes like it contains a higher density of fresh herbs per teaspoon than food scientists previously thought possible, and the fermented sambal evokes—of all things—buffalo sauce. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Whole Roasted Cauliflower This dish has a reputation and a following. In person, it’s anticlimactic. The cauliflower does have a nice char on the outside, but the middle is bland and a little mushy. The punchy red zhug on the side helps, but only so much. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Koji Mont Blanc A luscious vegan chestnut dessert with a delicate meringue shell. It tastes like a luxury vacation in a tiny European ski village with a name you couldn’t hope to pronounce. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick" - Molly Fitzpatrick