"Lungi used to be Imli, an Indian generalist on the Upper East Side. Then it buckled down and started specializing in coastal South Indian and Sri Lankan food. In a neighborhood where good dosas and hoppers aren’t exactly abundant (Manhattan itself has only one other Sri Lankan spot), this sharper focus makes Lungi exciting. The main reason to visit this clove-scented restaurant, where pots and pans clang in the open kitchen, is for its excellent dosas and hoppers. For the textbook-perfect, crisp brown masala dosa alone, Lungi is a welcome addition to the top half of Manhattan. photo credit: Lungi photo credit: Lungi photo credit: Sonal Shah The portions are generous, and the menu covers slightly more culinary ground than it needs to—the flip side of which is that the spicing, particularly in the karis, can be a little heavy-handed. (You'll find more finesse in the South Indian dishes at Kanyakumari, for example, or some of the Sri Lankan lunch plates on Staten Island.) But the regional specialties from Lungi's "short eats" section are great drinking snacks—like chicken 65 encased in a shocking red batter that’ll have you reaching for gulps of beer, and chunks of Kerala-style beef tossed with coconut and curry leaves. Lungi's main U-shaped dining room wraps around a stairwell, which can feel a little disjointed. So try sitting in the covered back patio for a smoother experience (unless they're hosting a large gathering there)—and use the bell on your table if you urgently need another Taj Mahal to go with your fried anchovies. Food Rundown photo credit: Sonal Shah Banana Leaf Special Meal Only available at Sunday brunch, the $45 banana leaf set is a ton of food for one person, with something like 11 sides (think coconutty avial, peppery rasam, mutton curry) to go with a mound each of plain rice and biryani. It’s a good deal and a nice sampler, even though the gravies can get a little same-y. Both the vegetarian and non-veg versions are a massive meal—though sharing is discouraged, we wouldn’t recommend ordering more than one of these per table. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Lamb Lamprais Careful when opening this banana leaf parcel—the meat and rice inside are steaming hot. This is a full meal, complete with vegetables and sambol, and while it’s not the best version of lamprais we’ve ever had, it’s definitely very exciting to have it available on the UES. Kothu Roti Another Sri Lankan staple we’re happy to have in the neighborhood, though the chopped roti and filling could use a lighter hand with the gravy—it’s a little too mushy. photo credit: Sonal Shah Eggplant Moju Eggplant and cinnamon were made to be together—add in a ton of shallot and curry leaves, and this is a very satisfying sweet and tangy four-way. The lamprais also includes a little of this dish. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Hopper While egg hoppers and string hoppers are available, we'd stick to the perfect plain ones: crisp on one curved side and soft on the other. Use them to scoop up a fiery Sri Lankan prawn curry in coconut milk, bits of garlicky pol sambol, and other gravies and condiments." - Sonal Shah
