Sotto - Review - Loop - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Sotto won’t blow your mind, but this Italian spot in the Loop is solid for a post-work dinner or if you have hungry visitors who just paid their respects to The Bean. Just don't expect more sightseeing: Sotto is in the basement of the iconic, 97-year-old Italian Village. Along with rustic brick walls and mirror illustrations of cocktails and vino, it has windows that can only peer out into darkness. Less iconic are the “Italian-ish specialties” referenced on the sign up front. Skip the shoyu-doused black garlic pappardelle that tastes more like soy sauce noodles, and get the zesty alla norma if you want pasta. For something heartier, the giardiniera-braised short ribs are juicy and have some brightness from the sweet drop peppers. Food Rundown photo credit: John Ringor Cacio E Pepe Arancini The arancini has a crispy crust and a good balance of cheese and pepper. But the sweetness and acidity from the saba is like an unwanted party guest. photo credit: John Ringor Alla Norma The tomato sauce that thoroughly coats each piece of rigatoni has a sweet and tangy balance with just a bit of heat. Guanciale adds some saltiness, while a layer of basil leaves adds freshness. Black Garlic Papperdelle This pasta has roasted mushrooms, black garlic, and pine nuts, though the heavy use of shoyu is so overpowering that soy sauce is the main taste. It’s not unpleasant, but it ends up being one-dimensional. photo credit: Jack Li Giardiniera Braised Short Ribs These buttery short ribs are one of the best things on the menu. The combination of salty jus and creamy 50/50 polenta has the same comforting effect as mashed potatoes and gravy. And each tiny sweet drop pepper has a satisfying burst of tartness." - John Ringor
