Roman's

Roman’s - Review - Fort Greene - New York - The Infatuation

"Think of Roman’s as a slightly aloof, punk-adjacent older cousin you grew up worshipping. He has a super normie job now, but deep down you know he still has good taste. This Fort Greene spot, which opened in 2009 as a minimalist-chic destination for Italian small plates, has mellowed out to become the platonic ideal of a neighborhood restaurant. Although its owner will be forever known for opening Diner in 1999—and inventing the concept of Williamsburg in the process—his restaurants have grown up quite a bit since then. Like the most upwardly mobile hipsters of that era did, he first moved east from Williamsburg to Fort Greene. That evolution finally reached its climax last September, with the opening of the comparatively elegant, splashy, and big-boy Borgo in Manhattan. But his one and only Central Brooklyn outpost is still a mainstay among a refreshingly wide variety of people who know it still delivers. Pratt students go there to load up on carbs paid for by visiting parents, and small groups of 20-somethings pass through before heading to Alibi, the very solid dive across the street. photo credit: Julia Gillard Roman’s menu—which rotates and is divided into firsts, seconds, and thirds—looks trendy but actually just plays the hits. On a recent Saturday, those included a half-chicken marsala and a hearty puttanesca ode with mackerel. Salads are simple but satisfying, if a tiny bit overdressed, like an arugula number made just a tiny bit interesting by the addition of matured, smoky cheese. It’s also worth pointing out that the dishes at Roman’s have gotten bigger over the years—a marked and welcomed change from when it was normal and expected for them to charge something like $30 for a pair of razor clams. Roman’s may not be destination dining, but this is a well-oiled machine that serves the needs of the actual people who live there. No one’s going to call you a cheapskate for taking a first date here after playing eyeball ping pong at the park. But it’s also approachable enough for couples who met at a Williamsburg loft party in 2002 to pop in from across the street for a 9:30pm dinner and gripe session about their grown kid’s new boyfriend. Food Rundown Fava Bean Puree This has been on every iteration of the Roman’s menu we’ve ever seen, and for good reason. It’s there to showcase the sourdough from (the owner’s) She Wolf bakery. This bread would be worth ordering on its own, so the protein and huge pools of olive oil are basically bonuses. photo credit: Allie Conti Pastas These rotate, but as with the salads, the portioning has been super dialed. Ask for the three-quarters size and order more than one. photo credit: Allie Conti Roast Chicken It’s a roast chicken, but a very good roast chicken. The accoutrement may vary from night to night, though it seems safe to expect a succulent bird with crispy skin and some sort of root vegetable base that absorbs the bird’s juices. photo credit: Allie Conti Panna Cotta Same as the chicken, this varies from night to night, depending on what fruit is on hand. Get it if you love panna cotta, but otherwise this is skippable. Chocolate Sorbetto The quintessential Roman’s dessert, which is super dense because it’s made with olive oil. Order it to go and eat it on the back patio at the aforementioned dive bar. photo credit: Allie Conti" - Allie Conti