Roman's
Italian restaurant · Fort Greene
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243 DeKalb Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11205, USA
Highlights
Locally sourced New American small plates with a cozy vibe
Locally sourced New American small plates with a cozy vibe
"Since it first opened in 2009, Roman’s has evolved from a minimalist, destination Italian spot into a reliably good, versatile neighborhood restaurant. Owned by the restaurateur behind Diner and Borgo, it caters to locals of all stripes, from Pratt students to people who've called home Fort Greene for longer than those 20-somethings have been alive. The rotating menu runs on crowd-pleasing classics like chicken marsala, puttanesca with mackerel, and chocolate sorbetto." - willa moore, bryan kim, molly fitzpatrick
"Think of Roman’s as a slightly aloof, punk-adjacent older cousin you grew up worshipping. He has a super normie job now, but deep down you know he still has good taste. This Fort Greene spot, which opened in 2009 as a minimalist-chic destination for Italian small plates, has mellowed out to become the platonic ideal of a neighborhood restaurant. Although its owner will be forever known for opening Diner in 1999—and inventing the concept of Williamsburg in the process—his restaurants have grown up quite a bit since then. Like the most upwardly mobile hipsters of that era did, he first moved east from Williamsburg to Fort Greene. That evolution finally reached its climax last September, with the opening of the comparatively elegant, splashy, and big-boy Borgo in Manhattan. But his one and only Central Brooklyn outpost is still a mainstay among a refreshingly wide variety of people who know it still delivers. Pratt students go there to load up on carbs paid for by visiting parents, and small groups of 20-somethings pass through before heading to Alibi, the very solid dive across the street. photo credit: Julia Gillard Roman’s menu—which rotates and is divided into firsts, seconds, and thirds—looks trendy but actually just plays the hits. On a recent Saturday, those included a half-chicken marsala and a hearty puttanesca ode with mackerel. Salads are simple but satisfying, if a tiny bit overdressed, like an arugula number made just a tiny bit interesting by the addition of matured, smoky cheese. It’s also worth pointing out that the dishes at Roman’s have gotten bigger over the years—a marked and welcomed change from when it was normal and expected for them to charge something like $30 for a pair of razor clams. Roman’s may not be destination dining, but this is a well-oiled machine that serves the needs of the actual people who live there. No one’s going to call you a cheapskate for taking a first date here after playing eyeball ping pong at the park. But it’s also approachable enough for couples who met at a Williamsburg loft party in 2002 to pop in from across the street for a 9:30pm dinner and gripe session about their grown kid’s new boyfriend. Food Rundown Fava Bean Puree This has been on every iteration of the Roman’s menu we’ve ever seen, and for good reason. It’s there to showcase the sourdough from (the owner’s) She Wolf bakery. This bread would be worth ordering on its own, so the protein and huge pools of olive oil are basically bonuses. photo credit: Allie Conti Pastas These rotate, but as with the salads, the portioning has been super dialed. Ask for the three-quarters size and order more than one. photo credit: Allie Conti Roast Chicken It’s a roast chicken, but a very good roast chicken. The accoutrement may vary from night to night, though it seems safe to expect a succulent bird with crispy skin and some sort of root vegetable base that absorbs the bird’s juices. photo credit: Allie Conti Panna Cotta Same as the chicken, this varies from night to night, depending on what fruit is on hand. Get it if you love panna cotta, but otherwise this is skippable. Chocolate Sorbetto The quintessential Roman’s dessert, which is super dense because it’s made with olive oil. Order it to go and eat it on the back patio at the aforementioned dive bar. photo credit: Allie Conti" - Allie Conti
"Open since 2009, Roman’s is as good as ever. This restaurant from Andrew Tarlow — Diner, Marlow & Sons, Achilles Heel — specializes in pastas, like rigatoni with chickpeas and pork sausage, and daily-changing specials, hitting all the right notes more than a decade later." - Emma Orlow
"Roman’s is a great neighborhood Italian restaurant to know about if you live in the area. It’s from the people behind Diner and Marlow Bistro and much like those two spots, Romans’ sidewalk patio is always full of people who look like they might make ceramics for a living. The next time you need a casual place to drink a glass of natural wine and eat spaghetti with mussels, this is your place." - nikko duren
"I see Borgo’s food paralleling Roman’s in Fort Greene: both favor seasonal Italian dishes and straightforward Italian mains, though Borgo’s larger kitchen allows for more ambitious, hearth-driven cooking." - Melissa McCart
