"At Smsh Bn, the limited stools will make you grateful that you’re alone. Sit and watch the burger-making at this in-and-out-style spot by Tottenham Court Road station that makes for a pulse-quickening show. The chefs rush around, one throwing potato bun bottoms in takeaway boxes, while another fills the huge griddle with perfectly round wagyu patties, before smashing onions into them and topping with american cheese while it’s still sizzling. It’s a chaotic, pickle-and-jalapeño-filled scene that’s genuinely better for a quick meal alone." - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, sinead cranna, rianne shlebak