Dear Jackie - Review - Soho - London - The Infatuation
"“Dear Jackie” sounds like the beginning of an illicit letter from your best friend’s off-limits ex—which makes total sense for a restaurant this sexy and dramatic. The red-drenched Italian peacock sits on the ground floor of the Broadwick Soho, a swanky hotel with gold elevators that take you up to a fabulous rooftop bar where you should get some prime people watching and An Education (a chocolatey rum number) in before a flirty meal. photo credit: Dear Jackie photo credit: Sinéad Cranna photo credit: Dear Jackie Pause Unmute The food at Dear Jackie is good—especially a rich, braised veal cheek risotto with a thick blanket of shaved truffle—but the Goodfellas-meets-Versace dining room is the real reason you’re here. Every seat is a good one, with cushioned, curved booths for gaggles of girlfriends in Rodarte ‘fits, and snug two-person tables where you can make eyes over vintage, dimly lit table lamps. After a few orangey Ginger Fred cocktails, we’d agree to a forbidden rendezvous. Such is the wooing power of Dear Jackie. Food Rundown Seasonal Crudité, Wild Garlic Dip Crudités can be really good, or just remind us of something sad from the vegetable aisle at Tesco. These are the latter. But they work as a seductive prop to twirl while getting down to some aggressive flirting. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Braised Veal Cheek and Aged Parmesan Risotto, Black Truffle Like the fictional letter writer we’ve decided is behind Dear Jackie’s name, this dish is filthy rich. The tender veal cheek sits on top of the risotto—creamy, nicely seasoned—and it has a pleasingly sticky, caramelised crust. The showering of black truffle feels like the courting equivalent of a deep bow: a satisfying final flourish. Launceston Leg of Lamb, British Asparagus, Bagna Cauda The lamb is nicely cooked, but this dish feels like a wallflower in this OTT dining room. Dear Jackie shines brightest with decadent, generous plates, and this isn’t one of them. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Baked Polenta, Taleggio, Parmesan, Thyme A comforting side dish that is completely unnecessary aside most of the heavy dishes here. But also—thanks to the bubbling cheese crust—we find it completely necessary. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna 70% Dark Chocolate Mousse, Pistachio Praline, Salted Cream This dessert is pretty good, but we'd like the mousse to be lighter and airier. The pistachio praline—in addition to being a pretty emerald pop of colour on the plate—adds some much-needed crunch. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna" - Sinéad Cranna
