"The number of high-end omakase sushi restaurants in NYC seems to proliferate week by week. But Nakaji has a few distinctions in the fancy sushi landscape. First, there’s the setting. This place is located in a little alley running between Bowery and Elizabeth in Chinatown, so you’re probably going to walk around confused for a few minutes before you find the doorway. The menu ($365 before tax and tip) also stands out from its peers, mainly through its dedication to seasonality. If you’re more likely to be impressed by the chance to try shirako (a.k.a. cod sperm) during its short season than by a torched piece of wagyu, get Nakaji on your list." - bryan kim, neha talreja, hannah albertine, will hartman