"Walk along Melrose between Fairfax and La Brea and you’ll see storefronts selling limited-edition sneakers and cannabis strains called Gandalf OG. We prefer another kind of window shopping on this stretch, though: Watching sizzling shashlik kebabs grilled over charcoal at the entrance to Zira Uzbek Kitchen, a family-owned spot that stands out not only for its cuisine, but for its warm service and comfortable dining room. photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp Decorated with vibrant textiles and ceramics, Zira is nice enough for a date but still casual enough to stop in for a midday lula kabob. And you’ll want to order the lula—the well-seasoned ground beef is so juicy it glistens on the plate. There’s lots to love about Zira’s other shareable and steaming-from-the-kitchen entrees too, like chewy hand-pulled noodles stained by zippy black vinegar, palm-sized manti filled with sweet minced pumpkin, and mounds of fragrant beef-studded plov. LA might not have many options for Uzbek food, but Zira’s biggest novelty is that it’s a slice of comfort in a hectic part of town. That, and the fact that it offers a filling sit-down meal on Melrose for a reasonable price. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Clapp Markovcha A delicious veggie intermission you’ll want in between bites of meat and bread. The lightly pickled shredded carrots are perfumed with fresh dill and coriander seeds that pop in your mouth. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Pumpkin Manti Plan on sharing these big dumplings because they’re packed full of a starchy mix of pumpkin and potato. The thin wrappers are pleasantly chewy, and we love the natural sweetness that the steamed pumpkin provides. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Uzbek Plov Fluffy rice is delicious, but so is this chewy fried rice. It’s full of great texture from the oil-coated grains, sweet carrots, chickpeas, and flecks of brisket. Every spoonful gives you a whiff of warm spices. It’s a lot of rice and meat, so order this for the table. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Shashliks Zira has never served us a shashlik we didn’t like, so order whichever of the seven varieties grabs your attention. Our favorites are the plump, salty lula kebab and the lamb ribs so soft a dull butter knife could cut them. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Samsa Plan on getting one order per person because these beef-stuffed pockets are too good to share. They feature a crackly, egg-washed shell and meaty filling that's sweet and soupy from cooked onions. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Pelmeni There are plenty of pickle-y things and warm spices on Zira's menu, but these supple pelmeni are noticeably gentler in flavor. They offer a nice balance to your table, and each one is generously plumped up with ground beef. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Uzbek Traditional Bread Known as obi non, this buttery traditional bread is your extra utensil. Order one (or more) for the table so you can tear into it and use it to push your plov onto your fork." - Sylvio Martins
