Hiroki, once an omakase superstar, has lost some of its shine - Review - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"At Hiroki, beautifully hand-painted glasses flow with rare sake, and your only responsibility is to be impressed by exacting napkin folds. It’s this level of service and showy Japanese seafood that captivated the city when it first opened in 2019. But Philly’s current omakase scene has several newer, shinier places where otoro regularly gets red-carpet ready, and the once-buzzy Fishtown spot has become more of a reliable back-burner than a first choice. photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute Diners can choose between dinner at the sushi counter, where they can watch the chef slice tuna into 10 identical pieces, or at a table in the dining area. If you’re here for the chef’s omakase—and that’s the reason to come—you want a front-row seat. Sitting at a table is like paying for a Beyoncé VIP package but singing along from the nosebleeds. And since the nigiri and sashimi are comparable to other quality Japanese restaurants in town, the only chance to see some flair or creativity that makes a meal here satisfying is with the starters in the 20-dish, $185 omakase menu. That’s when the soy-marinated poached egg yolk, delicately grilled eel, and tender wagyu in miso glaze do just enough to make a night here almost worth it. And it would be, if there were more dishes just like them. photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute When it comes to the à la carte menu—that’s only available Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday—there’s a reliable but unremarkable sushi omakase for $115, and satisfying soy vinegar-painted cold noodles. But there aren’t enough à la carte options to warrant going that route over the premium omakase. In fact, some dishes have issues with execution—the wagyu sukiyaki is presented on a sizzling skillet, and if you don’t pull it off in time, you’re stuck with an overcooked piece of $24 meat. A single shoot of pickled bamboo is the only ingredient that gives the miso black cod its flavor. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Pause Unmute When it comes to dinner at Hiroki, we find that being catered to like a rare bonsai tree is more of a draw than the food itself. But if you’re in the neighborhood and stick with the chef’s omakase, you’ll still get a bit of the thrill we miss from years past. Food Rundown Cold Noodles A colorful blend of pickled ginger and vegetables. Perfectly cooked chashu. And tangy soy-vinegar tossed noodles. Get it. PlayMute video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN A5 Wagyu Sukiyaki DIY is for putting a photo into a $10 picture frame; it’s not for high-end cuts of steak. This is a sizzling plate, albeit ornate, with a raw egg, thinly sliced wagyu, and a sweet soy sauce in the center. The staff will instruct you to swirl it all around and let it blend, but by the time they're done, your steak has left the ruby red territory and is headed for gravel brown. PlayMute Sushi Omakase Expect a soy wash or a dot of wasabi on some fresh flounder fin or Japanese golden snapper. But that’s after a warming miso soup and before a dessert, such as a fluffy strawberry cake or raspberry cheesecake ball. It’s all pretty straightforward and something you can get at several places, like Yuhiro, for less. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Chef Omakase It starts with one-bite-or-scoop zensai, like a quail egg in a soy vinaigrette or snow crab with a sweet jellyfish and crispy bit of tofu. A few colorful plates later, there’s a pickled bamboo shoot served with a miso-cured piece of cod, or maybe an uni or tuna handroll. Everything will be precise and nicely made, with occasional “meh” moments when it comes to the nigri. But it’s the only way to go when dining here. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo" - Candis R. McLean
