"When Zhengyalov Hatz first opened, they served one thing: leopard-print flatbreads stuffed with herbs and greens savory enough to make even a committed carnivore’s mouth water. (We don’t know which herbs and greens exactly, but there are at least 15 of them.) This traditional Armenian bakery near Glendale Galleria once had a sign on its window that said “vegan food lovers welcome,” in fact. But since then, they’ve blacked out the word vegan and built out a second kitchen with vertical spits and a beautiful brick oven—so now you can tear into minced meat lahmajun flatbreads or shawarma wraps with chicken or beef. Vegans are still welcome, of course—and those fantastic zhengyalov hatz are still the best item here. Order from the front where you’ll see bakers in white coats assembling wraps, then pick up your order from one of two counters, one for meat and one for veggies. The homey interior—with custom wooden napkin holders and salt shakers—is even cozier with the flickering flames from the oven. Watching the giant flatbreads come out of it blistered and steaming might make you go back to order another round. Whatever you do, don’t walk out (or dine in) without an order of lemonade, made with bracing Armenian sparkling water and muddled with fresh mint. Food Rundown photo credit: Andrew Ryce Zhengyalov Hatz The dish that made the restaurant’s name, literally. It’s a pocket of leaves worth driving across town for, or eating once a week if you’re local. Two of them make for a solid lunch, but even one is enough to calm hunger pangs. With (at least) 15 herbs, leafy greens, and just the right amount of salt and oil, they taste like a salad wrapped in a fur coat, striking the perfect balance between chewy and feather-light. photo credit: Andrew Ryce Shawarma Both the chicken and beef here are solid: thick-cut, well-seasoned, and surprisingly lean. A stiff pita wrap and only a few vegetables—onion, lettuce, parsley—mean the focus here is on the meat and an unusually tangy sauce. The housemade pickles that come with it are a nice bonus. We wouldn’t come here just for shawarma, but it’s a nice addition if you’re trying to make a meal out of a visit. photo credit: Andrew Ryce Lahmajun It’s fun to watch this come out of the fiery oven, but the minced meat topping is a little too sparse and underseasoned. You’re better off getting a second zhengyalov hatz. photo credit: Andrew Ryce Pakhlava This is one of the prettiest versions of this dessert around town. Somewhere between a baklava and a Russian honey cake, this is dense, sweet, and pleasantly nutty." - Andrew Ryce
