"A well-placed tentacle mural helps this seafood restaurant in Kirkwood keep the right amount of nautical decor without venturing into tacky territory. Then there's an upstairs dining room littered with TVs and a more upscale, white-tiled main dining room, so you can use The Argonaut as either a chill hangout or fancy-adjacent place to grab a superb seafood dinner. (Which is a change of pace for the very casual neighborhood.) The oysters are fresh, slurpable, and plentiful with an imported selection that range from sweet to briny. And the spicy blackened grouper sandwich on a buttery challah bun rivals our favorite from Fishmonger. And with every plate coming under $25, it's an excellent everyday option when you're in the mood for seafood. Food Rundown Kirkwood Smash The SSC (Society of Smashburger Conservation) might not think this burger is thin enough for acceptance. But we like it enough since the patties are crispy, the cheese trickles out the sides of the bun with every bite, and calabrian aioli brings some heat. Blackened Fish Sandwich Flaky grouper sits on a buttery challah bun slathered in a spicy calabrian aioli. This one is worth the mess you’ll make on your cloth napkin. Crudo First pick your fish (the hamachi is the best), and then pick your finish (the soy ginger sauce packs the biggest punch). But fair warning: they can be inconsistent since there have been times when this crudo has been badly butchered. But when they are on it, it’s worth ordering. Ceviche It comes in a cocktail glass and is so full of citrusy liquid it’s more like eating a cold, tart soup. The type of fish rotates based on the daily catch, but you get a healthy portion of whatever white fish (like flouder) is on the menu. Seafood Roll This isn't your normal lobster roll, but you should order it anyway. It’s served cold and tastes more like chicken salad with bits of lobster and shrimp in place of the poultry. And they give you a big, meaty portion, so you feel like you got your money's worth. Crab Claws Seriously skip these. The crab claws are cooked in a brown, oniony gravy that has great flavor. But (maybe because they’re simmering in this stew too long) they come out overcooked and hard to eat. Even if you have the Hulk-level strength to pry them open, the claw meat turns to mush." - Juli Horsford
