"There’s a choreographed flamethrower show in Kolae’s open kitchen, and it’s just one of the reasons this Thai spot’s counter in Borough Market feels so thrilling. Juicy hunks of chicken are rotated over flames, wok tornadoes of fire are tamed, and flavour-laded mussel skewers are plated up. It’s one of London’s liveliest bars, and the food matches the heat of the kitchen. " - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, rianne shlebak