"Every time a tuna craving strikes, we get flashbacks of the genius, slightly sweet ponzu jelly on top of Yashin Sushi’s soft toro and remember the profound urge to weaponise our chopsticks to secure the last piece of truffle-topped grouper. Nothing here comes with classic soy sauce. In its place, you’ll find a lip-smacking kiss of green chilli sauce on your Scottish salmon or burrata miso on the sea bass. The counter-seating experience is undeniably Kensington glamorous, but thanks to the smaller omakase options, you don’t necessarily have to spend big to experience their unique sushi hat inventions." - rianne shlebak, jake missing, heidi lauth beasley