"Il Gigante in Ridgewood somehow makes industrial grappling hooks and a mounted steel-frame bike feel cozy. Those accents (in the former Porcelain space) are softened by a combination of smooth jazz, red wine, and the buzz of staff speaking Italian to each other and recommending the day’s special. Big plates of homemade pasta—all of which are priced at $20 or under—come steaming from the kitchen. A great meal that won’t break the bank involves a platter with a bucketful of their airy fried calamari, and the squiggly, al dente gramigna pasta, bathing in a vodka-like sauce with chunks of fennel-forward sausage. We’ll be back to see how their green lasagna measures up to Rolo’s down the block. photo credit: Camelia De Jesus photo credit: Camelia De Jesus photo credit: Camelia De Jesus" - Will Hartman
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