CJ & D's Trenton Tomato Pies

You have to jump through hoops for the Trenton pizza from CJ&D's - Review - Philadelphia - The Infatuation

"Jumping through hoops in order to secure a meal tends to make the food taste worse. Expectations escalate, as does the hanger. By the time you finally have said meal, it’s usually not worth all the trouble. So if a pizzeria is tucked away inside a South Philly brewery, keeps very few hours, only accepts orders in person, and takes 45+ minutes per customer, they better be making one hell of a pizza. Lucky for us, CJ&D’s inside Cartesian Brewing makes one hell of a pizza. Calling this tiny, family-run operation a restaurant would be like calling that one extra from every episode of Law & Order: SVU a movie star. For now, the goal is for CJ&D's to sell enough pizza by night to allow chef CJ to have family time during the day. So they’re only slinging pies on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday for a few hours. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute The menu consists of four Trenton-style pizzas. For the uninitiated, this simply means cheese is laid directly on top of the dough, and then covered in sauce. As for the crust, it’s a thin and crunchy, no-flop situation, and each slice is well-lined with puffs of char bubbles along the edges. Everyone from grandparents with wobbly toddlers to friends drinking IPAs orders at the counter (no online ordering or calls accepted), then waits patiently in the brewery for their pizza to cook in the single-’za oven. One at a time. The process may seem precious and painstaking, but it’s what makes every pizza at CJ&D’s so good. Every crust crackles when you chew or fold it in half. Creamy, sliced mozzarella doesn’t sog under tangy, sweet crushed tomato sauce or juicy pepperoni cups, half full of that iridescent orange grease. And pies come out so hot that you’ll have to do the “hasafashafsas” after that first greedy bite. You won’t even be mad about it. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute We’re grateful CJ&D’s doesn’t rush perfection—so don’t expect them to. On Sunday afternoons, the wait for one of these bad boys can enter two-hour territory (they’ll share time updates on Instagram). Our first piece of advice is to pop over to Essen or Cannoli King for sweet treats in between. The second: if you’re dedicating your afternoon or evening to this pizza—which you absolutely should—don’t waste your time by only ordering one. By the time you actually secure it, you’re going to want more. Food Rundown Classic Tomato Pie In Philly, and pretty much everywhere but Trenton, we call this a cheese pizza. But in the capital of New Jersey, this is a Trenton-style tomato pie. More importantly, it’s the best plain pizza in town. Slices of fresh mozzarella layer along the bottom, ensuring no gaps in salty, creamy cheese. The pie is then topped with a bright and tangy crushed tomato sauce, along with a sprinkling of chopped garlic and pecorino. Those Jersey people were right—Trenton makes, the world takes. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo The Nonna CJ&D’s take on what we know to be a tomato pie. This is simply topped with crushed tomatoes, fragrant garlic, and a smattering of pecorino. Even the cheeseheads will enjoy it, and they also have an option for vegan or non-dairy pals to enjoy. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo The Pepperoni True story, our photographer couldn’t even get this pizza because the line was so long. We’re sad for her because it’s fantastic, and sad for you not to stare at it on your screen. This pizza is the same as their classic tomato pie, only topped with those adorable cups of crisp-edged but chewy pepperoni. Deliciously salty. A touch spicy. So satisfying, especially with a Cartesian beer. The White An incredible white pie, and required ordering. Domes of airy ricotta and spinach top that dreamy mozzarella landscape, along with garlic and sharp pecorino. You won’t miss the sauce—but do the right thing, and just get one of each. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo" - Alison B. Kessler