Carne Mare - Review - The Gulch - Nashville - The Infatuation
"Carne Mare, a steakhouse that made its way from NYC to the Gulch, confuses us. On one visit, the cutesy mozzarella sticks ladled with caviar go beyond the shock value and actually taste good, while the gorgonzola-cured wagyu striploin sets a new standard for just how good beef can taste. On return trips, the steak is, well, simply a good steak. And with excessive dim lighting, staff dressed in butler-esque attire, and furniture looking like it belongs in some mansion’s study, it feels like you stepped into a life-size game of Clue where the mystery to be solved is: what happened to the restaurant we ate at last time? photo credit: Carne Mare photo credit: Carne Mare photo credit: Carne Mare photo credit: Casey Irwin Pause Unmute Some meals are so delicious that the dark dining room doesn’t matter. Who needs to see when the steak is so good your eyes roll back into your head? But when there are more misses than hits, other things come into focus (dark or not). The dining room gets loud, some portions are near comically small for the price, and desserts rely on shock value more than taste. There are a few things that you can always count on to be great, though. The cheese and herb-dusted pane al latte is so pillowy, you’ll contemplate curling up on it for a restorative nap. The pasta dishes, from hand-cut pappardelle to spicy lobster spaghetti, are highlights—always al dente with sauces that taste slow-simmered, often garnished with fresh, soft cheeses. photo credit: Carne Mare photo credit: Casey Irwin photo credit: Casey Irwin Pause Unmute High or low, Carne Mare is still a very solid Nashville steakhouse. When it’s great, it’s talk-about-it-for-weeks great. When it falls short, it’s still pretty good. And it works especially well if you can drop a company card unabashedly, like so many others are doing throughout the dining room. Food Rundown Polpettini In Sugo Other than a tiny little snack at the bar, this dish has no purpose. The meatballs are somehow even smaller than expected and there isn’t enough to share. The sauce tastes fine, but unless you enjoy chewing drywall, don’t order this. Rolls These herby cheesy pillows of Italian milk bread are so incredible, Carne Mare could make a currency out of them. They’re basted with butter and topped with crunchy salt and a sprinkling of cheese and parsley. Always start with these. 12-Ounce Gorgonzola-Cured Wagyu Striploin Sometimes, this steak is so tangy, so tender, so thoroughly permeated with bold, salty flavor, you’d wonder if you’re drifting in and out of consciousness while you chew. Other times, it’s just a well-executed piece of meat. Who knows which one you’ll get on any given night. One thing you can always rely on: it’ll be cooked to a perfect medium rare. photo credit: Casey Irwin The Pastas Not the most common thing to say in a steakhouse review, but the pasta here is often the best bite of the meal. And yet, there are so many other options for stellar Italian food in the city, it’s hard to imagine seeking these out. photo credit: Casey Irwin Salt-Baked Black Sea Bass Cooked In Lemon Leaves The tableside presentation for this fish is a nice touch, but the flavor is muted. This dish is really just two tiny filets on a plate with a whisper of sauce for nearly half a Benjamin. You’re fine skipping it. 17-Layer Chocolate Cake You wouldn’t think it were possible to top 17 layers of cake with a layer of frosting each and still end up with a dry bite, but that is the sad situation here. We wish there was more focus on the flavor of the cake and less on the fanfare of height. photo credit: Carne Mare" - Ann Walczak
