"The Houston location of Toca Madera screams exclusivity, from the "members only" dining menus and speakeasy with an annual $1500 fee, to the jam-packed reservation schedule for those who can't afford to drop four figures on restaurant perks. Once you eventually get into the over-the-top Fourth Ward steakhouse, you'll see at least one flaming tomahawk cut perched next to a table full of men in bespoke suits. But for all the blazed beef, the food is just OK and hardly worth the special occasion price tag. If Toca played their music just a few decibels louder, we would have it shipped to our clubstaurant guide. But despite the Red Bull-fueled DJ's best efforts, the house music doesn't quite inspire us to dance on the booth couches. Toca Madera improves the later it gets, but there's no need to plan a full meal here. If you're curious about the place, come after 11pm when the bar clears out for a quick guava margarita or a skull-shaped dessert made of chocolate mousse and raspberry coulis. video credit: Gianni Greene video credit: Gianni Greene" - Gianni Greene