"Trattoria Ai Due Ponti makes quite an impression. Your meal starts with a spread of salami that arrives on a large wooden tray, piled high with five pounds of assorted meats and accompanied by a knife and glove. We’re talking about every type of salami you can imagine—classic, truffle, fennel, ‘nduja, and more—ready to be sliced and self-served until you’ve had your fill. It’s not all cured meats here, though. The pastas, like gricia with asparagus and the deconstructed amatriciana, are great. And the suckling maialino, juicy and encased in thick, crispy skin, is the porky equivalent of a soprano solo you'd see at Teatro dell'Opera. The white tablecloths and antique artwork make it somewhere you’ll want to linger, especially since you're miles away from large tour groups with flags and microphones." - Annie Replogle