"Dishoom isn’t just an easygoing, dependable chain of Indian restaurants. It’s the stuff of ruby chicken legend that has every visiting American in a flap. The chances are you’ve found yourself in this queue at some point, getting irritated, getting a little less irritated upon being handed free chai, and then getting irritated again when you realise that the mythical house black daal at the end of it all is good, but maybe not an hour’s wait good. Bacon naan roll stans and Big Queue apologists If you’re fewer than six people and can’t book, slide out of work early to appease your visitor and avoid the walk-in madness" - jake missing, sinead cranna, rianne shlebak, heidi lauth beasley