Cocina Consuelo is a New York love song - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"During dinner at Cocina Consuelo, someone might jump up from the bar counter, sit down at the warbly piano, and bang out a few minutes of virtuosic classical runs. As meal time limits invade even neighborhood restaurants, and table reservations require the buzzer skills of a Jeopardy contestant, such spontaneity can feel rare when dining out. But you'll find a surplus of unexpected moments at this tiny, walk-in-only restaurant in Hamilton Heights, which spills over with music, laughter, and the smell of good food cooking. photo credit: David A. Lee photo credit: David A. Lee photo credit: David A. Lee photo credit: David A. Lee photo credit: David A. Lee Ask for an agua fresca, and you may receive an off-menu hibiscus juice, mixed up so energetically that it comes with a frothy head. Order a coffee and they may offer you a pineapple espresso, or cinnamon-y café de olla. Even the oversized earring choices of Karina Garcia—one half of the couple that runs this spot—are charmingly impulsive: avocado halves one day, beaded parrots with blue tail feathers another. Whimsical as this place is, there's nothing slapdash about the food. The birria, served in halved marrow bones with fresh, earthy-sweet tortillas, simmers over 15 hours all night—and tastes like it. A stuffed cornish hen, deboned in just the right places, is perfectly juicy. The first bite of Consuelo’s breakfast tortillas, fried to a light crisp, is worth a moment of silence. photo credit: David A. Lee photo credit: David A. Lee photo credit: David A. Lee Making such creative food look as effortless as a quick pour of watermelon aguachile over firm, fleshy diamonds of mahi mahi isn't easy. But Garcia, who grew up in the area after moving from the Dominican Republic, and Eduardo “Lalo” Rodriguez, her husband who's from Mexico, have had practice. They've worked at restaurants like Cosme and Eleven Madison Park, and started a supper club in their apartment during the pandemic. Cocina Consuelo captures that same homey, enjoyably chaotic atmosphere. We especially love breakfast in the sunlit yellow room, but it's a great spot for a dinner date too, alongside some unique Mexican wines and beers. Whenever you go, head to Cocina Consuelo not just to satisfy your hunger, but also your sense of possibility. Food Rundown photo credit: David A. Lee Tortilla Con Huevo Want to see a vanishing act? Get these tortillas, fried to a light crisp, topped with fragrant hoja santa, perfectly runny, sunny eggs, and savory, smooth salsa roja. A must-order at breakfast, these disappear in an instant. “Green” Chorizo Picaditas Homemade chorizo, seasoned with a cumin-forward, freshly ground spice mix and lots of herbs, tops a masa cake that’s crinkled around the edges. These are available at breakfast, and are a good, meatier complement to the tortillas. photo credit: Sonal Shah Hibiscus ‘Tinga’ Quesadillas Small tortillas, folded in half over a jammy, slightly tangy stew of hibiscus, onion, and chipotle. Queso oaxaca holds the two halves together. This dish adds a sharp note at breakfast, and works for vegetarians. photo credit: David A. Lee Masa Pancake Order this giant, thick pancake for the table at breakfast or brunch. It has a sweet, slight corn flavor, is fluffy inside and gently crisped around the edges, and comes drenched in a pool of honey butter. The cherry on top is a dollop of cherry or blueberry compote. photo credit: David A. Lee Bone Marrow These halved bones, with marrow, birria, salsa roja, pickled onions, and a pile of cilantro, are so good, we’ve found ourselves dragging our fingers through the bone for the last bit. Our only complaint: we’d love a little bowl of extra birria on the side (and then a few more fresh tortillas, and then some more birria, and then…). photo credit: David A. Lee Cornish Hen This moist cornish hen is stuffed full of grains and wild greens, and garlanded with purslane—or whichever quelites they're using that day. It sits in a bit of morita chile-infused garlic butter and jus, and is a great dish to share with a dinner date. photo credit: David A. Lee Cesar’s Salad This plate of tenderly crunchy romaine leaves, topped with a light caesar dressing and golden-brown anchovy crumbles, rounds out any lunch or dinner. Colcanap Tres Leches Named after a supper club regular who loved Cocina Consuelo’s tres leches, this is the only dessert available at dinner. It’s not too sweet, but very creamy, and best shared. Check out the poem in Spanish about the supper club by the dessert's namesake on the wall." - Sonal Shah
