Baroo mixes Korean tradition into a relaxed tasting menu that clicks - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"A lot of tasting menus are like TED Talks—a little self-important, prone to dramatic pauses, and marked by a couple of overrehearsed movements. But at Baroo, a Korean tasting menu spot in an understated loft-like space in the Arts District, dinner is more like a lovely handwritten note than a showy speech. Thoughtful and delicious dishes lean more into comfort than novelty, service is relaxed, and there’s enough guidance and backstory to bring the dinner to life without making it feel like a seminar. There are only six courses on the $125 tasting menu, but it’s a lot more substantial than it sounds due to the way Baroo borrows from homestyle Korean bansang traditions (where dishes are meant to be eaten together, not in succession). Most courses arrive with multiple elements meant for mixing, matching, and alternating bites. Though less exciting on their own, each combination clicks together like magnets, like slices of raw fish with gim bugak, a chunk of fried lobster with a bowl of doenjang jjigae, and short rib steak with finely chopped briny white kimchi. There’s also a fantastic vegan menu (available with advance notice) that builds on the bansang idea even further with the ultimate multi-plate banchan spread. Servers might give you a nudge or two on how to pair things, but more often than not, how you eat is (mostly) up to you. Baroo has moved far beyond its early days as a grain bowl counter spot in East Hollywood, but even with a rice wine pairing and a coursed-out menu, the scrappiness hasn’t gone away completely. Which is probably the point. Baroo might qualify as fine dining, but it doesn’t always feel like it—and we mean that as a compliment. Food Rundown Note: Baroo serves a seasonal tasting menu that changes frequently. These dishes are examples of what you can expect. Celeriac Puree, Jokpyeon, Black Sesame Sool Bbang The opening course is a miniature demo on textures: foamy celeriac puree, a slice of jelly-like pork that eats like a savory fruit strip, and a one-biter of mochi-like magkeolli bread. Eating them all in succession is like putting your mouth through a fun obstacle course. photo credit: Cathy Park Jaetbangeo, Aehobak, Jaepi Oil, Sangchu, Gim Bugak A more minimal dish that’s pleasantly refreshing, with glossy slices of raw amberjack, a side of greens, and seaweed crackers that come in strange, coral-like shapes. There’s not much direction on this one, so you can alternate between them or assemble bites freestyle. There’s no wrong way. photo credit: Cathy Park Lobster Tuigim And Lobster Doenjang Your server will suggest you bounce between the two dishes in this course. One is a deeply funky doenjang soup, the other is tempura-esque lobster that tastes like refined lobster funnel cake. The back-and-forth makes each one better: the soup brings out the sweetness in the lobster, and the crispy batter gives your mouth a break from salty bean paste intensity. photo credit: Cathy Park Soy-Braised Black Cod This dish shows up looking like a spa treatment, with the silky fillet of black cod pampered in a soak of coconut-buttermilk sauce. It’s just as soothing to eat, and the hint of gochugaru sends a nice tickle down your throat. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Brandt Beef Short Rib Ssam Baroo's short rib is grilled and sliced like a classic steakhouse cut, which means its a bit plain, but it’s also just plain good. And it’s even better when stacked with not-spicy white kimchi that adds crunch and funk. photo credit: Cathy Park" - Cathy Park
