Ban Ban Burger

"We’ve eaten many (maybe too many) smashburgers doing this job, and after a while, they start to blend together. But not Ban Ban Burger. This counter-service spot on Sawtelle—from the people behind Tuk Tuk Thai— smacked the smashburger fatigue right out of us with its clever Thai spins. Thousand Island-ish sauce is swapped out for minty-garlicky gremolata. Snappy pickles are brined in rice vinegar and chilis. We now know that American cheese and spicy grapow seasoning are unexpected soulmates. Collectively, these tweaks are what make Ban Ban a needed jolt to LA’s tired smash patty scene and somewhere we’d send anyone looking for a tasty burger. photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp This burger counter is small and pink, with a front patio, one long communal table, and a few stools against the window. Like the colorful retro space, Ban Ban’s menu is small but not dull. While every item has a general Thai-American twist, nothing is repetitive. If you want your lips to tingle with peppery heat, the grapow burger comes with basil chili oil that’s rounded out with a runny egg. The punchier, garlic-heavy laab burger with sweet onions smashed into the patty is great, too. And though the burgers are the stars here, the crunchy fried chicken sandwich with panag curry sauce is worth ordering—the toasted sando comes sliced in half so you can see the visibly juicy thigh meat and a heap of scallion-chile slaw. Even if a hypnotist trained us to see all smashburgers as feral rodents, we’d probably still end up at Ban Ban—that’s how unique these burgers are compared to what everyone else is doing in town. And it doesn’t hurt that they’re delicious, too. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Clapp Grapow Smash Opt for this if you’re feeling indecisive. It’s spicy, tangy, and salty in all the best ways. The egg yolk lowers the heat and the thick-cut Thai-style pickles are briny and sweet. Our lone critique: the combination of lots of sauces and a delicate potato bun makes for a messy burger. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Wagyu Laab Smash If you like punchy, garlicky flavors (the kind that zaps the sides of your mouth in a pleasant way), this burger will make you happy. The bright flavor of mint comes through in the herb gremolata on top, which balances out the spicy laab seasoning. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Panang Fried Chicken Sando The buttermilk-marinated fried chicken in this sando has lots of craggy edges, which is an important detail. The sweet panang curry and scallion slaw cling onto the crust, so you taste them in every bite. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Satay Katsu Sando Like the chicken sando, this pork katsu is visibly juicy when you gaze at this sandwich’s cross-section. We might prefer the chicken sandwich a tad more, but the thick, sweet peanut sauce on this one makes it an indulgent treat. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Laab Fries These shoestring fries might not look very seasoned but, trust us, they are. The dusting of laab powder is zippy and a little spicy, which makes it difficult not to shove them in your mouth ten at a time. They come with curry ketchup, but we prefer a side of their makrut (lime leaf) aioli for dipping. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Pandan Shake This pale green shake is thick, fragrant, and exactly what our mouth craves after a spicy burger. The pandan adds a vanilla-y sweetness that’s not too much, and the little jellies at the bottom are a fun surprise. photo credit: Jessie Clapp I-Thim Sando Sticky rice and sweet milk bread together might sound like a carby mouthful, but this fully loaded ice cream sandwich works. The coconut ice cream stuffed in the middle is somewhere between a sorbet and regular ice cream: smooth, refreshing, and not too sweet. The peanut caramel drizzle is a nice touch, too." - Sylvio Martins