Mischief - Review - Le Marais - Paris - The Infatuation

"Plenty of Paris restaurants dabble in nostalgia, but that version looks and tastes very different at Mischief, the cheeky sister restaurant of Reyna. On a simple level, the pitch is comfort food that spans the cultures and styles the chef grew up with and encountered while traveling, served in an industrial-chic space that could easily be a Rick Owens runway show set. But what comes out of the open kitchen (where you should request to dine to watch the team work) is both punchy in the flavor department and playful. French onion soup in spring rolls and oyster po’ boys that come stuffed into a bao instead of a bread roll are fun, shareable starters. The excellent pressed lamb dish collides with phở, which is done here in a reduced broth and served on rice noodles, topped with a chili pepper chimichurri for a kick. And most fun and unusual is the homage to spaghetti-O’s—hand-rolled pasta swimming in a bone marrow and anchovy sauce, available in limited quantities." - Lindsey Tramuta