"The Compton Arms is an Islington pub that’s perfected the art of the cool, whiff of gastro pub residency. And now, thanks to its sardine-affiliated tenants, Rake, it’s also home to an exceptional, sexy little hot dog that’s significantly more sensual than the Romeo and fine-line tatt Juliet we saw heavy frenching over a vintage chessboard by the bar. But despite the comforting presence of chunky chips and tangy curry mayo on the menu, Rake’s take on British-leaning comfort classics isn’t always as effortless as its surroundings. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli The best things here are the ones that feel like they were masterminded by a half-cut 4am fridge raid—radishes dipped in cocktail sauce, fatty lardo slices all spiced up, and that half-sized, full-pickle-presence hot dog dipped in gravy. It’s when things get a little more fussy that the fun stops. The exceptionally salty XXL ray wing tenders suffocate its crumpet foundations and the braised cuttlefish is all chew, minimal flavour. Stick to simple if you’re in the candlelit, date-ready dining room, or better yet park yourself at the bar with someone who’ll appreciate the David Shrigley posters and order a frothy pint and the best of the snacks—the Compton hot dog. Food Rundown photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Chips + Curry Mayo Beautiful, chunky, and—stay with us here—like watching a fluffy potato Bruce Banner try to break free of its hulky clothes as it supersizes into its ultimate form. The curry mayo leans light on the curry element but these big boys can carry the creaminess. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Radishes + Cocktail Sauce A real ‘does what it says on the tin’ number. That being said, holding a pink sauce-smothered radish like it’s a lit cigarette and sloshing a glass of wine around while mumbling about your ex-relatives is our new favourite hobby. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Ray Wing Tenders, Crumpet + Hot Golden Syrup Let the record show that we are, and always have been, supporters of crumpet experimentation. But this is a lot of salty, fried ray wing for one little crumpet to handle. We’d be very into this if the fish factor was split over two crumpets, with a little more golden syrup to cut through the saltiness. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley The Compton Hotdog Not only should you not share this hot dog, you also shouldn’t order just one. It’s four bites and finito, but what a four bites they are. A herby, subtly spiced cumberland sausage, flaky onions for crunch, pickles for pizzazz, and the sweet bloomer bun is a soothing stress ball in bread form. An instant hot dog icon. Braised Cuttlefish, Ale + Potato The texture of cuttlefish—chewy, smooth, sort of like eating the world’s best hairband—usually really gets us going but this was tough. So tough we had to give our teeth a nice long sipping R&R with another pint. A hard life, we agree." - Heidi Lauth Beasley
