"In 2022, when Papaya King closed, we thought we’d lost an icon—an institution, where New Yorkers from all walks of life scarfed snappy dogs with sauerkraut, relish, and homemade mustard, ever since it opened in 1932. The Upper East Side business is back in a new spot on 86th Street, and while the cookie-cutter storefront misses some of the charm of the original, the perfectly griddled hot dogs are just as snappy as before. These dogs are back and barking, and the creamy papaya drinks curtail any potential salt overload in your mouth." - molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, neha talreja, willa moore, will hartman