"The Raglan is Walthamstow’s best pub for food. You can pitch up at the bar for a quiet pint and a packet of Taytos, but really The Raglan shines brightest when you’re ordering a spread of Indian-Irish dishes: spicy, generous portions of crowd-pleasers like mac and cheese and a vada pau with vindaloo pork more tender than our head the following day. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Choosing where to sit at The Raglan is like being a new kid surveying the playground—are your people the ones dangling from the monkey bars or eating crayons in the sandpit? Families, groups, and those who protested the opening of a Gail’s in Walthamstow Village occupy the more formal half of the room, sinking into olive-green banquettes with armfuls of children up past their bedtime and well-behaved rescue dogs. The space in front of the bar—all chic little stools and cool couples—is where rounds of Dublin sours hit tables and the odd plate of achari whitebait is picked at. And there’s a particularly lovely little nook, with high wooden sides and a solitary flickering candle, that was made for sharing a sticky-sweet gulab jamun with someone you’re sweet on. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch This pub is the laid-back, little sibling of Shankeys and being an excellent host runs in the family. Meals are leisurely, fun affairs, where you’ll (willingly) be plied with pints and sharing platters of spice bags—salt and chilli tater tots, peppers, onions, and a liberal pour of curry sauce—until rolling out hours later than planned. It’s the kind of place where, between cheerful chats with staff and too many Markievicz mules (named after Constance, Irish suffragist and all-round legend), you'll realise that you’re not making it home in time for Newsnight . Food Rundown photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Achari Whitebait There’s nothing like grazing on crispy, well-spiced whitebait in a pub to make you feel like you’ve made it. A bowl of nuts? That was the old you. New you likes swiping crunchy little fish through tangy whipped roe while discussing the work of Ruth Wilson. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Bhindi Chaat While the kala dal was deliciously creamy and mild, some pieces of the batter around the okra were a little soggy. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Vada Pau Perfectly balanced and the ideal bar food—hitting all the spicy, sweet, fatty, rich notes that a beer pairs so well with. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Spice Bag This isn’t a McDonnells curry sauce job. This is the fanciest spice bag we’ve ever seen with practically a whole, juicy spatchock chicken laying on top of crispy tater tots. This is The Raglan’s signature dish—proclaimed by us—and it suits the easygoing, convivial pub atmosphere. photo credit: Sinéad Cranna Slow Cooked Venison Neck A big plate of meat, piled high like some kind of Viking celebration centrepiece. Although we found it far too rich—with all the chocolate notes and heady cardamom—to finish. That’s not necessarily a problem when you can get it boxed up and use it in a curry the next day like we did. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Mac & Cheese We’ve had this a few times at The Raglan and have always felt like Cinderella searching for the perfect bowl. On one occasion it was too dry, on another it was under-seasoned, and we’ve never had one that’s been just right. Greens There's no false advertising going on here, these are just greens. You might feel like they’re necessary if you’re getting a big plate of meat or a platter of chips and curry sauce, but they aren’t. Give these bitter greens a miss. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Gulab Jamun Shankeys also makes this dessert which is good news because that means there are two places in London where you can indulge your sweet tooth. Caramelised banana and mini, syrup-soaked dough balls sit in a creamy mango custard. There’s nothing to cut through the sweetness. It is an unapologetically candy-like overload of fun right at the end of the meal. And we love it." - Sinéad Cranna
