"Opening: October The chef behind Agi's Counter, one of our favorite daytime spots and home of one very fine tuna melt, is taking over the former Fort Defiance space in Red Hook. Open Wednesday through Sunday to start, the place will have fried veal sweetbreads, olive mortadella with fried saltines, and the lemon-lime, saltine-crust dessert known as Atlantic Beach Pie. Also, free bread service." - bryan kim