Cafe Commerce's foie-forward comfort food hits home on the UES - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"In more ways than one, Cafe Commerce is a throwback. The Upper East Side rebirth of a West Village favorite, which closed in 2015, the restaurant features a Madonna-heavy playlist of ’80s pop hits. The staff’s shiny white ties under red vests could have been pulled out from costume storage, and a lightly pornographic depiction of Saint Sebastian looms over the room from a 19-foot mural salvaged from the original spot. This might all read a little downtown sceney, but in its second incarnation Cafe Commerce is more of a versatile neighborhood spot for the UES scene. The teeny oxblood booths, hardly wide enough to fit a puffer jacket, work for a cozy neighborhood date night. Strollers aren’t uncommon either. And the crowd-pleasing food makes this a good option for a special-feeling family meal. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte A bread basket (free with any entrée) comes with miniature pretzels and warm rolls the size of jumbo marshmallows. There’s some standout schnitzel, and a whole chicken slathered in foie gras, which makes a dramatic tableside appearance before being carved. The four-layer coconut cake is another towering spectacle, and it earns its cult-favorite status among old regulars. If you don’t happen to live in the area, keep Cafe Commerce in mind for a post-museum meal, lubricated by a perfect house martini that’s served with a twist and a dash of orange bitters. Food Rundown photo credit: Kate Previte 20 Herb Salad We haven’t tallied the exact count of herbs, but we’ll take their word for it. With alternating bites of parsley, basil, mint, and more, this salad is like a confusing (and underseasoned) game of I Spy. The shaved manchego is nice, though. photo credit: Kate Previte Sweet Potato Tortelloni The dumplings themselves are unmemorable, but this dish is worth ordering for the sauce alone: brown butter livened up by the tart pop of pomegranate seeds and the crunch of hazelnuts. photo credit: Kate Previte Rigatoni With Commerce Carbonara This glossy, peppery pasta comes crowned with an egg yolk that straddles the precise thermodynamic border between liquid and solid. It’s a good choice. photo credit: Kate Previte Schnitzel Our favorite dish here. This golden-fried slab of chicken is juicy and well salted, accompanied by a refreshing salad with appealingly hefty chunks of celery, tomato, and cucumber. photo credit: Kate Previte Steak Diane The filet (a perfect mid-rare, in our case) and the green beans wrapped up with a ribbon-like strip of carrot look like plastic food swiped from a window display—and we really do mean that in the most complimentary way possible. The pan sauce is pleasantly bright and mustardy. It’s good, though you will never think about it ever again. photo credit: Kate Previte Harold’s Famous Chicken For a full send of a meal, get this. The chicken serves two, for what’s actually a fairly reasonable $99—given that the foie gras stuffing is as much foie gras as it is stuffing. It also makes quite an entrance, dramatically presented tableside before it’s hurried back to the kitchen to be cut up for you. The richness isn’t overpowering, and all the parsley entwined with the meaty, melty onions is a nice touch. photo credit: Kate Previte Coconut Cake Cafe Commerce’s sprinkle-encrusted, chocolate-frosted birthday cake sure is cute, and it even comes with a lit candle, whether or not it’s your birthday. But the coconut cake is the one to order. It’s wonderfully moist, with tangy creamy cheese frosting, toasted coconut shavings and luscious coconut pudding hidden between its layers." - Molly Fitzpatrick
