Mano A Mano - Review - Logan Square - Chicago - The Infatuation
"Mano A Mano calls itself “a pasta project,” which might explain why this Logan Square spot (from people behind Asador Bastian and Andros Taverna) feels like such a work in progress. Its decor style is unfinished dark old basement, with wood paneling and a few seashell lamps. And the inconsistent pastas don’t make the stale space worth it—the homemade pappardelle are too firm, and the squid ink tagliatelle is one-note. Red chili flakes make a recurring appearance, whether in a just-fine corn agnolotti or a much worse, very salty insalata verde salad. Mano A Mano also has a limited drink menu of a few Negronis and house wines by the glass—it’s all about the bottles here, even though the place won’t make you want to hang around. Food Rundown Panino Alla Mortadella The thick pile of mortadella makes this starter taste like a typical bologna sandwich with a little cream. The choux pastry is soft, but the sandwich itself is tough to split. photo credit: Akane Matsumoto Meatballs When an Italian restaurant can’t properly season their meatballs, or make the accompanying sauce more exciting than Chef Boyardee’s, it’s a major red flag. Skip this. photo credit: Akane Matsumoto Pappardelle The braised rabbit is fine, if a bit oily. But the noodles are oddly al dente, to the point of almost being crunchy. photo credit: Akane Matsumoto Agnolotti Red chili flakes have a big presence on this buttery dish, as if to lazily spice up the very sweet cheese and corn pillows. photo credit: Akane Matsumoto Gelato Alla Minuto This OK dessert comes with creamy gelato, caramel, and corn cob kernels. When everything is in the same bite, it also tastes just like a vanilla ice cream cone you could order for cheaper at a certain Golden Arches five minutes up Milwaukee. photo credit: Nick Allen" - Nick Allen
