At Le Café Louis Vuitton, the logo is good enough to eat - Review - New York - The Infatuation

"They say it’s not the destination, it’s the journey. But at Louis Vuitton, it’s not really the journey either—it’s the luggage. And to put an even finer point on it, it’s the logo printed all over that luggage. At the luxury brand’s Fifth Avenue cafe, that logo is printed all over the food, too. Le Café Louis Vuitton is as much a restaurant as it is a branding exercise—and a ridiculously literal interpretation of the phrase conspicuous consumption. The thing is, that logo tastes pretty good. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Pause Unmute Two egg-shaped cups of creamy, truffled oeuf mousseline would be delicious even if you somehow missed the LV branding crisply printed all over the accompanying brioche breadstick. The logo’s four-petalled flower appears in the foam of a just-sweet-enough vanilla matcha latte, as well as in the form of tiny floral sugar cubes. Of course it's toasted onto the top bun of their inch-thick, juicy burger. Soon, the Louis Vuitton motif is burned into your retinas. You’ll start hallucinating the logo’s presence even in its absence. Is that smoked salmon layered to resemble an L? Is your napkin the V, or did you just happen to drop it like that? photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick photo credit: Britt Lam Pause Unmute Like a character breakfast at Disney World, the library-like cafe is full of merched-out superfans who’ve spent a great deal of money to be here, and couldn’t be more thrilled to be pointing out all the Hidden Mickeys everywhere. The servers understand this. They might even gently direct you from the Crab “Louis” to the Monogram Flower Ravioli, since the former is “not quite as branded.” (The ravioli is significantly less enjoyable.) Their commitment to the bit is charming, and the happiness of those superfans is strangely endearing. Though Le Café manages to resist feeling like a corporate cash grab, it is just as expensive as you’d expect—and certainly not for everyone. But if you’re into fashion, or just have a taste for kitsch and French-ish food, you’ll have a good time here. Provided you can nab an elusive reservation, it's a fine spot for a leisurely breakfast, or a photogenic espresso martini with LOUIS VUITTON PARIS NEW YORK floating on its froth. Leftovers? Not a problem. In fact, that might be the best part. They’ll box them up for you and send you on your way with a shopping bag, identical to the one you’d be toting if you’d just dropped five figures at one of the registers downstairs. No one has to know the difference. How to get into Le Café Louis Vuitton Reservations are released at midnight, 28 days in advance. A few tables—and the six-seat bar—are saved for walk-ins. Food Rundown Truffle Eggs ‘À La Coque’ Available all day, this $32 snack is spendy but worth it. The silky, liquid-gold egg mousseline is served in ceramic “shells,” with a buttery brioche soldier to dip in them. Our only complaint is that it came with a singular brioche soldier, when we would have gladly taken down an entire platoon. Monogram Flower Ravioli The pasta is beautiful, but the side of each piece that’s printed with the Louis Vuitton motif is tough and dry—it’s safe to say the branding directly worsens the eating experience in this case. photo credit: Britt Lam Vanilla Yogurt Parfait One of the least conspicuously branded breakfast options also happens to be one of the best. The thick vanilla yogurt is pastry cream-adjacent but not too sweet, served with a generous portion of raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, mango, kiwi, a little mint, and a housemade granola that looks and tastes like the best cornflakes we’ve ever had. Crisp Monogram Waffle This waffle is meant to be pulled apart and, at breakfast, layered with smoked salmon and herby cream cheese, the approximate texture of buttercream. It's buttery and crisp, but the overall bite feels muted, like it’s missing something. Try the afternoon version, served with a briny hit of caviar, instead. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Scallop Souffle The dish that least resembles the terrestrial human food typical of this dimension. That doesn’t mean you won’t enjoy it. There’s some seared diver scallop hidden inside this spongy cube of scallop souffle (made of scallop blended with cream). It's served over a champagne beurre blanc and topped with caviar. Definitely not unpleasant to eat, but it does cost $52—the same price as the filet mignon—and contains just about three terrestrial human bites. photo credit: Britt Lam Le Burger '1898' Hey! A good burger, entirely independent of the logo print toasted onto the bun. It costs $36, putting it just a couple dollars short of Minetta Tavern’s Black Label Burger, or the wagyu showpiece at 4 Charles—famously luxe burgers to which it does not measure up. But this has a subtle dry-aged funk, good-quality cheddar, and nicely caramelized onions, plus a side of crunchy, well-seasoned fries. photo credit: Britt Lam Hazelnut Entremet Delicious, with just the right amount of fleur de sel to balance out the sweetness. If Ferrero Rocher had a fairy godmother, this is how she would have arrived at the ball (pumpkin not included). photo credit: Britt Lam" - Molly Fitzpatrick