"Elma, the tiny, anything-but-red-sauce Italian spot in Fishtown, has a lotta heart and potential. They only offer a $150 rotating tasting menu, and some of the courses are excellent. On our first trip, we had a bright and tangy hiramasa with green strawberry, and crab and ricotta squash blossom that tasted like a delicate, decadent take on a crab rangoon. But the misses hurt. A strip steak was tough to cut and even tougher to chew, and deliciously salty anchovy-stuffed culurgiones came drowning in a pool of oil. The place isn't as formal as the price point suggests, and it just feels good to hang in here. Expect a room that's loud with impossible-to-ignore indie music, couples on dates, and friendly chefs palling around the completely open kitchen. And since the menu rotates every four weeks, we’re hopeful that Elma can buckle down and capture more of that energy on the plate." - Alison B. Kessler
