"A cylinder of bread stuffed with stretchy sulguni cheese and cooked over hot coals until it’s crisp and, in our experience, as hot as lava. What’s not to like? The khachapuri shampurze at Geamos—a cheerful St John’s Wood restaurant where everyone is made to feel like extended family—hits all the right cosy, carby notes. It’s golden, warm bread, twisted into a loose coil, and stuffed with mild cheese. It made us feel like the favourite child as it was paraded through the dining room towards us." - sinead cranna