NYC's Greatest Old-School Italian Restaurants, From Oldest To Newest

"People talk so much about the line at Emilio’s Ballato, a celebrity hotspot in Nolita that hasn’t taken reservations since 1956, that they forget to talk about the food. That’s a shame, because once you make it inside, the red-sauce classics, like a rich bolognese, and fried calamari covered in cherry peppers, are excellent. Come with a group—ideally early, on a weekday—order the off-menu Vitello Antonio (vodka parm, layered in crispy prosciutto) and enjoy it under the watchful eye of Emilio Sr., who sits at the table behind the door, surveying the room and watching YouTube videos. If you're lucky, maybe you'll get an invite to Da Milio, their speakeasy next door. For really great food, this is our top pick." - willa moore, will hartman, sonal shah, neha talreja