After nearly half a century, The Odeon is aging gracefully - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"When The Odeon opened in 1980, there was no better place in the city to see and be seen, to party, or to eat fries. An instant hit—halfway between a brasserie and a diner—its gravitational pull drew a glitzy scene of artist-celebrities to Tribeca, like the Saturday Night Live cast and Andy Warhol. Its iconic neon sign is enshrined in a tattoo on Lena Dunham’s butt. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte The hedonism has cooled, but The Odeon is aging gracefully. It’s still a wonderful place to linger over a meal or drink a martini, and devour cup after silver cup of crisp french fries. The bistro chairs and red leather benches are always packed, even if the regulars look a little different now. Sure, there are chic publishing types in black turtlenecks and vintage designer spectacles sharing oysters, and even a respectable number of famous people. But there are also lots of children, clutching crayons and demanding steaks; and at least one French bulldog repeat customer in a forest green vest. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Neither trendy nor stodgy, the neighborhood-friendly menu is built on easy-to-like classics like generously cheesy french onion soup, and burgers (three of them, actually: beef, plant-based, and tuna). The salads are evenly dressed and a purple rice bowl with avocado makes an appearance. Apart from a dry chicken breast here or there, the food is consistently satisfying—and occasionally excellent, even when it doesn't need to be. The secret ingredient here isn't something you can taste, but everything you see around you. Artfully positioned mirrors reflect diners’ faces back at flattering angles. Globe lights shine at a steady low wattage, and an Art Deco clock glows neon pink and green on the wall. Design details inherited from a 1930s cafeteria—terrazzo floors and dark wood paneling—create a sense of timelessness. At The Odeon, it's easy to forget what decade you just left behind on the sidewalk. Food Rundown photo credit: Kate Previte French Onion Soup A great way to start any meal here, especially when it’s cold outside. The broth is satisfying and beefy, on the sweeter side, and you’ll have to restrain yourself from picking off every last molecule of funky, generously browned gruyère that dripped down the sides of the crock. Crispy Calamari You may not have thought much about the calamari when you first glanced at the menu, but you will inevitably smell these when an order passes by you in the dining room, and you will (hopefully) decide to get them after all. They’re perfectly fried, crunchy and golden. Moules Frites Plump, sweet, salty, delicious—these mussels are possibly the very best main course at The Odeon, and we welcome any reason to eat their very good frites. Do not allow the creamy, saffron-perfumed broth to leave the table. Dip everything you can in it, like your fries, and especially your neighbor’s fries. photo credit: Kate Previte Odeon Burger The Odeon makes a better-than-solid burger—to which you should add cheddar—that we’d gladly eat any day of the week. The toasted brioche is sturdy and the burger is well constructed (this isn’t a knife-and-fork job). It’s juicy, tender, and well seasoned, with a smoky chipotle mayo on the side. The locally famous tuna burger, however, isn’t something you need to try. Grilled Flank Steak The grilled flank steak is more flavorful than the strip, and also a little cheaper. It pairs well with the au poivre. The mixed greens are a completely acceptable choice of a side, but it feels like professional negligence not to remind you that the fries here are very good. photo credit: Kate Previte Harry's Hot Fudge Sundae John Belushi’s favorite dessert at The Odeon was the crème brûlée, but we’re all in on their unexpectedly excellent homemade ice cream. For an inner child-healing end to your meal, get the sundae, which comes in a glass goblet with three scoops of your choosing (the vibrant mint stands out—it’s like falling mouth first into someone’s herb garden), plus pralined almonds and whipped cream. If they offer butterscotch say yes, and if not, ask them to bring it along anyway." - Molly Fitzpatrick
