"Ganjang gejang, raw soy-marinated crab, is a classic Korean dish that’s rarely a primary focus for restaurants. At Rice Thief, it’s the main event. Every platter they serve looks like the glittering, glistening crown jewels of a deep-sea kingdom, but taking your first bite of sweet, jelly-like Gunsan crab—a coveted variety flown in from Korea—is like the moment in The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy steps into Technicolor. The wild red Argentine shrimp are also outstanding, with a sweetness and texture like ocean candy." - bryan kim, willa moore, molly fitzpatrick, will hartman