"When Sheerin resurfaced in 2018 as the executive chef of City Mouse, the restaurant at the Ace Hotel Chicago, it felt a bit like a resurrection of his previous work. Trenchermen's menu had been both reliable and prone to whimsy, with entrées like seared sea scallops and Japanese sweet potato cappelletti sharing space with appetizers like fried pickle tots scattered with trout roe. This same scheme is clearly on display at City Mouse. The scallops and cappelletti (this winter made with chestnuts) are back, and the appetizer that Sheerin and his staff were the most excited to point out was the playfully named 'Country Mouse,' bite-sized appetizers of caviar with cheddar and caramel, designed to evoke the classic Chicago popcorn mix. City Mouse isn't Trenchermen, but that marriage of time-tested favorites and snappy treats is back on display." - Jacob Dean
