The Inspectors' View on One MICHELIN Star Apicius

"Set in an opulent 1860 mansion once owned by the Schneider family and later by film director Luc Besson, this restaurant marries historical grandeur with delicate contemporary touches by François-Joseph Graf across a succession of small lounges. Approaching from Rue d’Artois near the Champs-Élysées, we crossed a huge green courtyard and a lush garden of bamboo and shrubs along winding paths, and the birdsong and bucolic calm made it feel as if time had stood still in the middle of Paris. Inside the large vestibule, moldings, coffered and frescoed ceilings, and majestic chandeliers set the tone—“It’s luxurious but not ostentatious. The décor is not overwhelming, but opulent on a more human scale.” Named for the ancient Roman epicurean, its story is closely tied to Jean-Pierre Vigato, who led the kitchen for many years before handing the reins in 2018 to Mathieu Pacaud, with Executive Chef Matthieu Lecomte alongside. The à la carte is mightily appealing: XXL-sized morels stuffed with crab, and a pearly white turbot, lightly grilled and garnished with a jardinière de printemps (crisp baby zucchini, wild asparagus, and carrot tops) and a fine carrot mousseline, enriched with a slice of gambero rosso, accompanied by two sauces—a frothy, airy saffron sabayon and a deep, intense bouillabaisse reduction with basil." - The MICHELIN Guide