2 Days in Paris: Authentic Bistros and Hidden Gems Locals Love

"It looks like a bistro, it feels like a bistro (with some gussied-up decor), but Chef Baptiste Borderie brings a more modern flair to Colvert through his work with sauces, flavor pairings and textures. Of course, given the restaurant’s name — “colvert” is French for “mallard” — the menu leans heavily on meat and game. “You have the codes of the bistro here, but we’ve tried to update them,” says Borderie. “We have all the classics but we’ve lightened them, modernized them with newer techniques and influences from our travels.” However, while making classics lighter, he and his team have also preserved the generosity one expects from a bistro meal. A classic leek vinaigrette recipe was refreshed with the earthy flavors of raw champignons de Paris (button mushrooms) and cooked trompette de la mort mushrooms, plus toasted hazelnuts and fried onions for added texture. The vol-au-vent was served with ris de veau (sweetbreads) and seasonal root vegetables, dressed in a Comté cheese sauce. And if you’re lucky, dessert might be a riff on the classic clafouti, prepared with poached plums instead of sour cherries and topped with a scoop of cardamom-almond ice cream." - Lindsey Tramuta