A Falafel Master Turns to Couscous with Kish-Kash | The New Yorker
"The chef Einat Admony’s newest restaurant evokes North African and Middle Eastern home cooking. A casual diner would be forgiven for missing the distinction between Admony’s couscous and the supermarket stuff, though hers is finer and a bit fluffier. At Kish-Kash, the stews sit in big, colorful Le Creuset Dutch ovens on the counter of the tiny open kitchen, waiting to be portioned onto metal camp plates. Lamb shank, falling apart into shiny panels and sweetened with dried apricot, is nestled with tender peeled potatoes. Whitefish is blanketed in spicy, jammy tomatoes and red peppers for a classic Sephardic dish called chraime. An Israeli enjoying the chicken tagine, heavy on meaty green olives and bracingly bitter preserved lemon, dismissed the other Israeli-owned restaurants he’d tried in New York. Kish-Kash, though, passed muster. 'It’s home cooking,' he said." - Hannah Goldfield
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